Beauty Trends

Skinfluencers love active ingredients

Skinfluencers on Instagram and TikTok focus intensively on ingredients in their cosmetics. Their aim is to prevent premature skin ageing (slow ageing) and to achieve clear, glowy skin with a strong barrier function. Skinfluencers favour active ingredients whose effects have been proven in scientific studies. For this reason, retinol, AHA, niacinamide, panthenol and ceramides, for example, are particularly popular at the moment. Samphira Oil Bioactive by Codif or NovoRetin™ by Mibelle Biochemistry are natural alternatives to retinol. More than an intelligent and green alternative to D-panthenol is Pantodium Cica by Codif, which stimulates the production of vitamin B5 directly on the skin and scalp.

Biotechnology

Biotechnology will become increasingly important in the future in order to protect natural resources. The advantage: even a small amount of plant material is sufficient to produce a large quantity of active ingredients. Innovative and sustainable plant molecular farming uses plants as natural bioreactors. Fermentations also often play an important role here. Examples of biotechnologically produced active ingredients include MossCellTec™ by Mibelle Biochemistry, Vitasmoothy by Codif, Black BeeOme™ by Mibelle Biochemistry and LenEasy® by Transactiva.

Neurocosmetics 2.0

In recent years, the skincare routine has increasingly developed into a wellness and self-love ritual. Now the holistic approach goes one step further and combines cosmetics and emotions: Newly researched neurocosmetic ingredients have been proven to act on the skin-brain axis. The market research institute Mintel also sees 'NeuroGlow' as the next big development in the field of wellness and wellbeing. Proven effectiveness of the products is essential for this. The new Neuraé brand from the Sisley Group is a good example of this trend. The facial care not only nourishes the skin, but also has a targeted effect on mood and psyche. With TiMOOD™, our supplier Mibelle Biochemistry already offers the perfect active ingredient for this trend. Neurocosmetic active ingredients can also be an exciting addition to perfumes that are intended to create a relaxed or positive mood.

Climate Care

Climate change will increasingly influence the cosmetics industry in the future: This affects not only the sourcing of raw materials, but also changing customer needs as temperatures rise. In Japan or Korea, for example, versions of popular cosmetic products that cool the skin by several degrees are launched on the market every summer. The new Augmented Skin facial care from Prada is also interesting in this context. It is based on 15 adaptogens from plants that are known to be able to adapt to extreme weather conditions and give the skin resilience. Our active ingredient MossCellTec™ No.1 by Mibelle Biochemistry protects against stress and damage caused by major fluctuations in temperature and humidity, improving the skin's ability to adapt to environmental changes.

Skin Longevity

Anti-ageing is out, because healthy ageing is a privilege and cannot be valued highly enough. Longevity research has defined hallmarks of ageing that determine the ageing process: genomic instability, telomere shortening, epigenetic changes, loss of proteostasis, altered nutrient recognition, mitochondrial dysfunction, cellular senescence, stem cell depletion and altered intercellular communication. The Skin Longevity trend combines the longevity concept with skincare. Factors such as stress, sleep and mental health are increasingly being addressed by cosmetics. There are some potent active ingredients for ageless skin, e.g. RejuveNAD™ or CollPerfect™ P6 by Mibelle Biochemistry, Phycojuvenine DI-GPENT by Codif or Rejuvaveen by Oat Cosmetics.

Beauty treatments as inspiration

Beauty treatments in international beauty clinics are increasingly becoming an inspiration for new product developments for home use. One example are the Reedle Shots from VT Cosmetics, which are described as “microneedling in a bottle” and can be used as part of daily skincare routines. Stars from the USA and Korea are sharing their minimally invasive treatments on social media, making active ingredients such as exosomes, growth factors (EGF, FGF), NAD+ or polydeoxyribonucleotides (PDRN) popular. PhytoCellTec™ Exosomes from Mibelle Biochemistry offers double exosome power as it contains plant exosomes and also stimulates the production of the skin's own exosomes. Phormiskin Bioprotech G from Codif contains several million ‘blue’ exosomes per ml from an ancestral alga. Mibelle Biochemistry's RejuveNAD™ has been proven to increase NAD+ levels in skin cells. Dermosculpt, derived from the green microalga Chlorella vulgaris, is not only rich in peptides but also contains significant amounts of low-molecularweight PDRN, making it a vegan alternative to conventional salmon DNA.

Gen Alpha: Sephora Kids

Gen Alpha is taking the Sephora perfumery chain's shops by storm in search of anti-ageing cosmetics: the media refer to eight to twelve-year-old girls as ‘Sephora Kids’. Particularly popular brands are Sol de Janeiro, Drunk Elephant and Glow Recipe. Skinfluencer, but also Kidfluencer, have a great impact on young people. The private labels of drugstores in Germany have already recognised the potential of Gen Alpha and offer, for example, sheet masks with playfull motifs. Newly launched skincare brands for children and teenagers (e.g. Sincerly Yours by Salish Matter or minLen by Weleda) focus on barrier care and safe cosmetics for children. Moisturising ingredients such as Hydranov by Codif or soothing ingredients such as Oat COM by Oat Cosmetics are suitable for this young target group.

K-Beauty

The formula for success behind K-Beauty is the clever combination of pop culture and beauty. For about fifteen years, the global importance of Korean cosmetics has been steadily increasing: the first K-Beauty wave (around 2012) brought new product categories such as sheet masks, cushion foundations, essences and BB creams to Europe and the US. Korean cosmetics are now increasingly reaching the mainstream in Germany and can also be found in brick-and-mortar stores, both in drugstores and perfumeries. The current second wave of K-Beauty focuses on sun protection, exciting textures such as capsule creams and jelly mists, and new active ingredients. In Seoul, NAD+, PDRN, glutathione and peptides are very much in vogue. Mibelle Biochemistry's NAD+ booster RejuveNAD™, Codif's Dermosculpt with PDRN from a green microalga and Oat Cosmetics' EcoPep Skin with multidimensional effective oat peptides are ideal for K-beauty-inspired cosmetic products.

Skin Barrier

Often, the importance of a healthy skin barrier only becomes apparent once it has been damaged: The increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) causes skin to look reddened, feel tight or sensitive, or develop impurities. This is the reason why barrier creams or barrier boosters have become so popular – they reduce redness and irritations or help to restructure the skin’s protective barrier layer. The trendy Milky Toners combine the effects of a hydrating facial toner and a nourishing cream, providing targeted support for the skin barrier. Active ingredients such as AvenaPlex by Oat Cosmetics or Idaskin by Codif are ideal for these kind of beauty products.

Bond Care and Glossing

The American brand Olaplex popularised the topic of Bond Care in the field of hair care. This refers to products that repair the hair's hydrogen, ionic and disulphide bonds. The cuticle layer of the hair is then sealed on the outside with a Glossing. Suitable active ingredients for hair bond care include our EcoPep oat peptide by Oat Cosmetics, which strengthens the hair from the inside. PinoPlex™ by Mibelle Biochemisty coats and smoothes the hair shaft and provides glossing-like shine. The film-forming agent Glucaveen by Oat Cosmetics, derived from oat bran, also fits into this group, e.g. for moisture and anti-frizz.